Guatemala - 6 weeks in Rio Dulce

Our main reason for going to Rio Dulce, was that we had a couple of tears in our Main Sail, and costs in Miami to do the repair and reinforce all the seams on the Main was huge. In Rio Dulce, there is a Sailmaker, Chloe in Cayo Quemado and she is very competent with staff to help with the moving of large sails for sewing purposes. As it would have it, when visiting her, she was busy with work for 2 weeks before she could take delivery of our Main and begin our work. So we hung around Cato Quemado doing little chores aboard. Taking off the Main and lifting it into Chloes Loft was quite a procedure, but all went well with her staff and Nicholas.

Chloe said the repairs and resewing of all seams would take about 2 weeks, so we headed up river to Fronteras to stock up on Fresh Supplies, and I wanted to visit the excellent dentist Cledente for Teeth Cleaning. I also recently discovered a spot on my Face which I was not happy about and wanted to see a Dermatologist about.

Sailing up through the Golfete Lake and to Fronteras

We anchored close to Catamaran Marina where we’d berthed last season

Catch up dinner with Ben of SV No Cry at The Shack

Excellent Pina Coladas

And excellent The House Burgers with Fries

Friendly House Cat

You might recall we brought some boxes from Miami for a Fellow Cruiser. Well we met them and they were kind enough to Thank us with a dinner at Dreamcatchers with Chef Lizelle.

Nicholas had an excellent Pasta dish with Shrimp

I had Rib Eye Steak

Meshugga at anchor, boat to the left in the photo.

We decided to try sell some of the huge amount of equipment that Nicholas has upgraded on Meshugga, so we took a table at the bi-weekly Cruisers Swop Market. NO luck…….

Off to the Dentist for an excellent Teeth Cleaning

To go to the Dermatologist it’s a half hour ride away in the town of Morales. Even though Nicholas said I should take a taxi, I was most happy on the local Litequa Bus. I met Horst, who sat next to me. A 85 year old German sailor, who was also going to visit the same Dermatologist. 

We kept each other company and chatted about our sailing lives.

Walking around Morales, whilst we waited for the bus back to Fronteras

Whilst at anchor near Fronteras, one night during a Huge Thunderstorm we Again got a Lightning pulse and it took our out Wind instrument. We rushed to order not One but Two Wind Instruments from Hodges in Miami and had them AirFreighted in.

 

Chloe messaged us to say our Main was ready for collection so we Motor-Sailed the 10 miles to Cato Quemado where her loft is, to collect our Main, and deliver our New Gennekar which Nicholas wanted slightly cut as it was a bit long and low when flying it.

Installing our Main

The local fishermen are Very proficient at throwing their Throw Nets

I got stung/bitten ( I think by a spider), the welt was huge, red and inflamed. Antibiotic crème and no scratching helped it along and a week/10 days later all was back to normal.

We delivered our Gennaker to Chloe, and here’s Nicholas marking where Chloe should cut the Gennaker to his specifications.

Main installed, we went back to Fronteras to again stock up with Fresh Produce and collect our DHL Airfreight Wind Instruments. This time being more prudent of a possible Lighting Strike, Nicholas did not isntall it, and thought he’d only do it as we left Rio Dulce.

Nicholas decided to try a Faraday Cage around the Wind Instrument. Hopefully it’ll deflect another Lightning strike.

Final dinner with Ben. No idea when or if we will see him again. This time at Ah Wei, which tonight specializes in Margaritas and Tacos

My Shrimp Tacos

Carne (meat) Tacos

Houses alongside where we were anchored at Fronteras.

Back to Cayo Quemado and collected our cut down Gennaker, 

Leaving Fronteras

The wind looking favorable for our voyage, we motored the final 10 miles to Livingston to clear Customs and Immigration.

Stunning Ravine of the Rio Dulce

Heading to go under the Dreaded Power Lines again. But this is our 6th time, so getting used to it, although we still hug the Left bank where the Lines are higher.

A quick visit to Raul, the Agents, office we were all legit with a Zarpe and stamped passports and free to leave Guatemala.

The tides showed that High Tide all week was in darkness, so we took the Bull by the Horns and crossed the bar at 3am, following our previous incoming track, sailing 10 miles across the Bay to anchor in the lee of the headland, and getting a few hours sleep.

Morning gave us a sloppy swell, which was not great for Nicholas to go up the mast to replace our Wind Instrument and lift our 8 foot VHF aerial which gives us VHF and AIS comms, but there was no alternative.

Final prep to sail to Panama….

USA, Key West - Guatemala, Rio Dulce

Our trip was slow and uneventful, despite the stress of Hurricane Beryl strengthening and whose path we would have to cross.

The Gulf Stream current played havoc with us and dogged us with 3-4 knots against us from Key West to the West end of Cuba. Two days of very slow sailing.

A Tanker who was on a Collision Course with us, crossing in front of us within a mile. Our new VHF/AIS aerial sees AIS Targets at a 25 mile range, and so we were well aware of the impending situation. The Tanker communicated with us on VHF to arrange passing, and we agreed to change our course to avoid a collision and pass behind them.

This is the Gulf Current which we had to contend with. Thanks Duane for the photo.

Then we had to cross the Gulf Stream again to the Mexico coastline, this time with the winds East we were able to head more SW across the Gulf Stream and close the Mexico coast south of Isla Cozumel which kept us out of the stronger current near Ilsa Mejures, which we had to contend with on the same trip last year when we had strong SE winds and could not head as south as we could now.

Thereafter we sailed south within 1-2 miles off the Mexican coastal reefs to keep out of the north setting Gulf Current, but the current and east winds created swells big enough to make sailing uncomfortable.

Nicholas studying the Chart and Instruments

Crossing from West Cuba to Mexico, lots of ships can be seen on AIS. We’re the white boat in the center.

Once we entered Belize waters, we were able to enter their Barrier Reef at the English Cay Channel, and were then completely out of current with flat waters. It was champagne sailing with Meshugga doing 9-10 knots. With a night ahead of us and the usual possibility of squalls we put in two reefs, slowed the boat, and settled again into our Night Time Watch System of Nicholas staying up to 2am, and me getting some sleep, and then I take over at 2am til Nicholas wakes up, usually at 7am.

Sailing in the shelter of Turneef Islands towards English Cay Channel to enter the Belize Barrier Reef

We had about 6 Boobies flying around Meshugga for a couple of hours. Meshugga disturbs the fish, and they swoop down to our bow wave to dive and catch fish

The slower night speed meant we missed the High Tide for the Rio Dulce river bar, but we decided we’d try enter anyway, as we had a Track from our last exit, which was a published Track that a Cruiser had posted after depth sounding the bar. If we got stuck, we’d have to sit and wait for the next High Tide.

We crossed 4 hours after High Tide, and at a very low speed, with all sails down to motor and control our course exactly as the route included a dogleg. We touched briefly in soft sand and could feel the keels dragging through the mud, but we had no problem getting over the hard rock bar.

Our route over the River Bar, you can see the Dog Leg we have to make to avoid a very shallow patch, and the Track is no where near the Navionics Chart recommended Track!

Safely anchored in the Livingston anchorage area, a Ferry Boat approached us with the Officials and Agent Raul to whom we’d sent all our documents to arrange Inward Clearance on our behalf. Ten minutes later they departed with our passports, with an instruction to go collect our passports, Cruising Permit and make payment at Rauls’ office in an hours time.

I put the Boom cover on, had a shower, and we went ashore. Livingston has a reputation for petty thievery, and so we paid the Dinghy Guard to watch our dinghy at the Jetty. Not needing anything urgent, we made a quick trip to Rauls’ office.

Livingston Main Jetty

Agent Rauls’ Servamar Office

Back at Meshugga, it was Low Tide and the right time for us to head up-river, and under the dreaded Power Lines again. Having done it four times before, I was not so stressed as previous occasions, and we passed under safely, even noting that the river was fairly high as they’ve had a lot of rain in the recent weeks.

Ten miles upriver we anchored at Quemado, and had an early dinner and early night to sleep. A celebratory Arrival Dinner and Beer at a Restaurant could wait for the next day.

Our anchorage at Quemado.

The trip took us 5 days.

During our Trip Hurricane Beryl has slammed into Carriocou, Grenada, Union and Mayreau Islands in the Grenadines, Jamaica, Cayman Islands as a Category 5 Hurricane with 155 knot winds, and enroute to slam into Mexico just south of Isla Cozumel as a Category 2 Hurricane with 110 knot winds. Whilst of concern, our Trip was planned and we were in no danger at all, even though our Trip was taking us across Beryls path a couple of days ahead of her reaching the area.

Our route

A couple of photos of damages caused on Carriocou Island, just north of Grenada

During the Trip, I celebrated my 60th Birthday. Thank you to everyone who sent messages. It was wonderful, when getting Comms, to receive them all.

Guatemala, Time to Leave

Both of us are at last feeling a lot better, so we went ashore to Fronteras to shop for fresh produce and buy a birthday cake and gift, that we’d promised to a little local boy, Luna (8 years old ) in Cayo Quemado  

With the New Instrumentation installed and 99% working, we upped anchor and motored the 20 miles to Cayo Quemado. 

Alfredo saw us at anchor and came to say hello with his daughter. He was most grateful for the birthday cake and gift for his son Luna. They are quite poor, and survive by fishing and growing and selling fruits. 

A hand of bananas I bought from Alfredo. 

We went to Fred, the Raymarine chap’s dock, and he spent less than a half hour assisting Nicholas with the last bit of programming that Nicholas was battling to get right. We now have all our instruments working 100% and can safely sail away. 

After Fred, on leaving his dock we motored the 10 miles down river to Livingston, and I contacted the agent Raul to process our Outbound Clearance. Nicholas had overstayed his Visa, which expired 10 February, but I’d checked out that possibility and we only had to pay a Visa fine of Q15 per day ($2 per day).

Fred’s dock

Chloe, the Sailmakers Loft

Beautiful misty conditions as we motored down the Rio Dulce to Livingston 

We had to pass under the dreaded Power Lines again, and we hugged the Port bank. 

We have a bit of Quetzal left, but with the notorious theft situation from anchored yachts in Livingston, I was uncomfortable leaving Meshugga unattended to go ashore for a last night out Valentines meal. 

Happy birthday to our daughter-in-law, Katie and Happy Valentines to everyone. 

Thursday 15 February, 8 months since we arrived in Guatemala, we spent the morning chilling and readying Meshugga so cross the bar at High Tide at noon. 

Livingston 

We crossed the bar at High Tide successfully with just two small bumps on the bar. Then we anchored waiting for the wind to switch. Currently it coming directly from the direction we want to sail to, but early to mid evening it should switch to easterly which will allow us a beam reach sailing north. 

Bacon, Tomato and Avo sandwiches for lunch whilst we wait.

At 3.30pm we upped anchor and motor sailed. By 6pm the expected easterly came through and we shut the motor off. Beautiful sailing, behind the Belize reef, flat water with 15 knots of wind. Sublime.

We exited the Belize reef at the English Channel soon after daybreak, and continued north. 3 days of excellent conditions continued.

Half hour fun sitting on the Starboard pulpit seat watching dolphins

We’d passed Cancun/Isla Majuers/Mexico well to sea, midway to Cuba. Current was strong with us, wind too. Quite a few ships on AIS, but nothing close or dangerous.

I’d just come off watch at 4.30am and at 5am was awoken with a huge noise and the sound of rain. Grabbing my scrunchie for my hair I raced up to the Flybridge in my Pj’s. Nicholas was there, Flybridge lights on. The wind was screaming, rain flying horizontally, sea spray everywhere. The wind, which was supposed to gradually switch from SE to South the SE to West, had not happened, and instead on a Squall came thundering through straight from SE to West, with Big winds.  We’d gybed. Nicholas was battling to get the Genoa furled as it was lying hard on the mast and inner Forestay. I rushed to the Helm and Nicholas shouted, “Don't let us Gybe again”  I saw that the Auto pilot could not cope and had clicked to Standby, and grabbed the helm and steered Meshugga up into the wind (after having a Quick Look at the Chart Plotter and scanning the horizon for ship lights). This slowed the boat down, and with the wind from the front, taking the pressure out of the sails, Nicholas was able to furl the Genoa. He then turned on the engines, and powering into the wind, we slapped two reefs into the Main. We eased off the wind, taking out a handkerchief Genoa, and turned the engines off. No damages, but we were soaked to the bone.

As the new westerly wind settled in we pulled out more Genoa and continued across the Florida Strait. Our next expectation of excitement was for around 9pm when the wind would go north.

Sods Law, at 7pm, the boat screamed and heeled with the huge northerly wind. Rushing up to the Flybridge again we reefed the Genoa. But instead of the 25-30 expected northerly, we had more than 40 knots, and felt it not prudent to aim into the huge swells to put a 3rd reef into our main. The wind continued to howl all night. Big winds and big sea state. No sleep was possible.

By 4am the wind eased to NW, and we could aim higher to Key West. We arrived and anchored in the lee of Stock Island prior to day break, and in dropping the main, we saw that our decision not to put in a 3rd reef had consequences, and we had a tear in our main and a batt car attachment to a batten had broken. More Repairs 🤷‍♀️

Time to sleep. On awaking we cleared into USA on the Roam App, and as per normal for a Foreign vessel, and was asked to report to CBP (Customs Border Patrol & Immigration). We dinghied to Stock Island Marina, and Ubered to CBP. As usual the process was quick, efficient and professional.  All legal in the States, we wondered down Duval Street, but having visited Key West so many times, we did not feel the pull to drink Rum Punches at the variety of bars, or buy memorabilia. 

Back on Meshugga we chilled, awaiting the next weather system to sail east and north to Miami.

That opportunity came next morning, and on the wind shift to south, in predawn we slipped our anchor and sailed up the Hawk Channel. Light winds, and with 3 reefs in our main so we don’t do further damage, we ghosted at 5 knots, 6 with the current.  As night fell, and we headed more north, the Hawk channel compressed and deciding that it was too dangerous to sail overnight up the narrow Hawks channel with reefs and unlit buoys, we headed out over a reasonably deep enough section of the reef out to sea. 

As usual I headed for bed at 9pm for a few hours sleep, to wake for my 1am watch. Instead of Nicholas going down to sleep, he said he’d stay up too - as it’s just a few more hours… He dozed in the Salon, I kept watch, and by 4am we were at the Biscayne Bay Fowler Light, so we could start to enter Biscayne Bay. Both on the Flybridge deck, we navigated through the channel, mostly with lit buoys, (a few unlit, just to make life interesting), and dropped anchor abeam Key Biscayne at 5am amid at least 10 other anchored yachts - a 23 hour trip. 

Time to sleep. We did nothing yesterday. Slept, read, ate and drank. Today we’re starting to make lists. We have some issues we need specialist contractors for, some big ticket items to buy, and as usual some Repairs and Maintenance, cleaning and quite a bit of laundry to do.  

All fine aboard the good Ship Meshugga.