Heading out of Key West, USA on Wednesday 14 June we headed due south to Cuba. It was slow going with light winds and crossing a strong Gulf Current. 24 Hours later we closed Cuba coast approximately at Hemingway Marina, and turned west to follow the Cuban coast about 2 miles off the reefs to stay in the very light counter-current. Another 24 hours later we rounded the western end of Cuba, and turned south. Our plan to head due south before crossing the Gulf Current again, towards Mexico this time, was thawted by strong south easterly winds, which forced us to head across the current earlier than we’d planned to. We battled across the current as it swept us north at the strongest at 5 knots, and as we were close hauled, it was difficult sailing conditions. Eventually we closed the Mexican coast just south of Isla Mejures, and again went close inshore to try find a zero or a very slight counter current, ie going in the same way as us.
Sunrise whilst on watch
Another 24 hours later we entered the Belize waters, and soon thereafter was able to go through a passage in the Barrier Reef into shallow water out of the north-setting current.
At long last the wind freed up a bit and went more easterly and we had lovely sailing conditions. The SOG is our speed, 9.8Knots!
At 4 and a half days since leaving Key West, we arrived in Guatemalan waters and soon thereafter at midnight anchored in the lee of a headland to await morning light, and high tide to get across the Rio Dulce Bar at Livingston.
Guatemala in the distance
Starlink was amazing and we had connectivity under our normal plan all along the Mexican, Belize and Guatemala coast.
We did not toggle to pay for Transoceanic connectivity and around Cuba, which does not have cover.
Crossing the bar with a foot of water under our keels, we anchored at Livingston.
Local fishing boat next to the channel to cross the Bar of Rio Dulce.
I WhatsApped the Agent Raul to process our In-bound Clearance with the Authorities. Within 2 hours the Officials came aboard and the process was very quick and professional.
A couple of hours later we went ashore to collect our stamped Passports and Cruising Permit from Raul and draw local cash, and look around Livingston.
Looking at Livingston from Meshugga, a local Ferry comes past us
Then, it was sit around and wait for Low Tide, so that we could get under the Power Lines which cross the Rio Dulce just as one leaves Livingston to go upriver.
Whilst Nicholas drove Meshugga, I was in the dinghy on the opposite side of the river to get a clear look to ensure Meshugga could get under the Power Lines. I was surprised to see we passed under the power Lines quite easily, with Meshugga at the extreme LH side of the river and touching the trees on the river edge.
Only later did we find out that the River is at a 20 year low due to no/little rain over the past few months. Hence going out in a few months time after the rainy season, the river will probably be much higher! And Meshugga’s mast closer to the Power Lines. Yikes!
The initial section of the Rio Dulce is beautiful, narrow, with steep vertical cliffs on either side of the river.
10 Miles up the river, at the beginning of Lake Isabel, we anchored overnight. Next morning we went to visit the only Sail Repair Loft on the Rio Dulce. We found the Loft to be professional, and could see that the work currently being done on a sail looked to be of good quality, and they had proper Commercial Sewing Machine which does the safety triple stitch we is used on sails.
Happy with what we’d seen we returned to Meshugga and took down our Genoa, and bricked it for transport to the Loft, along with all the Materials we’d purchased in the USA for our Sail Repair.
Having accomplished our mission, we treated ourselves to a Guatemalan arrival lunch and local beers .
Back at Meshugga we decided to get going and reach our destination which was the Hotel Catamaran & Marina. On our arrival at the Marina, Steve the Marina Manager met us in his Launch and guided us to our Marina slip, which was a close fit for Meshugga, with Fingers on either side and just enough space to get in and have fenders on both sides. The Marina staff were superb in their assistance to help us tie up and get settled.
We’ve now been here at Catamaran Marina for 10 days, and slowly learning more about the area, where to find Yacht Supply Stores, Hardware stores, Restaurants, Fuel, Propane, the Bakery which makes good Sourdough bread etc.
We went into the town (more like a village), called Fronteras, a short dinghy ride away as the Catamaran Marina is on an Island in Lake Isabel.
Dock for Launchas and Dinghy
It’s hot and humid, with everyday around 32-35 deg C, and nights drop to 29 deg C. Humidity hovers around 90%, and most nights and mornings we have rain.
Thankfully the Resort has a wonderful Pool, and most days we go up mid afternoon for a cooling dip.
The Hotel Catamaran & Marina Reception from the water, as all guests arrive by Launch.
Beautiful flowers
Volleyball court for the energetic
Marina
Nicholas has been very busy installing a small Aircon system that can run off our Battery Bank which is charged by Solar Panels, as our existing Aircon system is a huge 115 BTU system which either requires us to run the Genset or use Shore Power. Whilst we could do both, Shore Power is expensive, and running our Genset is noisy, uses Diesel, and puts wear and tear on the machine.
He has also been installing big ceiling fans which have made a huge difference in the Salon and our bedroom. He has fans still to install in the Cockpit over the dining table and the other cabins.
I have not been that busy, just doing usual boat chores, laundry etc.
Shortly after we arrived, I found out that the FB group I am joined to, called Women Who Sail, was having a monthly local luncheon. 7 ladies from our Marina went, including me, and in total there was about 25 Ladies from various marinas on the Rio Dulce at the Luncheon. It was a great event to network, and find out more about our new surroundings, events, and where to get various supplies.
On the Launcha to Ana Coffee House for the Luncheon
Mary and Michele
From that, some Ladies from our Marina suggest Yoga, and we now have a daily morning practice, which we now hold in the Blue Lounge, using my Apple Fitness + Yoga App, Mirrored to the Lounge TV, so it can easily be seen and heard by all of us.
On my birthday, we went out for dinner to the “German Restuarant” Casa Perico. Being on an island we went by dinghy. As we motored around Catamaran Island it was interesting to see the Chalets from the water.
Breakfast area
We went up a little unnamed river to the Restuarant.
The small opening to the river
Last bit of news, is that we have planned a trip back to South Africa. We leave Meshugga on Sunday 9 July arriving in Cape Town on Tuesday 11 July. We will be staying in Cape Town at an Airbnb in Green Point, and firstly getting all our necessary Medical checkups done, as well as getting new Drivers Licenses, Passports, and also seeing all our Cape Town family and friends. Once the essentials have been taken care of, I will do a trip to Pretoria to visit my mother, Genevieve, and then to Durban to visit all my other family. Nicholas will do a trip to Johannesburg to see the staff at Venn.
We don’t have return flight dates yet, as all depends on how quickly we can get all the essentials attended to. But we expect to be in South Africa for a month.
Meshugga will be fine, well tied up at the Marina to Fingers on either side, and the Marina staff will take care of her, ensuring Fenders and Mooring Lines remain intact. It’s still early in the Hurricane Season, late August and September being the height of the Season, so even if a hurricane does slam into Honduras whilst we are away, and the rain for which Rio Dulce is the catchment area raises the lake and river level, boats float!
