Guatemala to Panama - 3 weeks of stress

After spending a few hours sleeping, in the lee of the headland, we prepped Meshugga which included Nicholas going up the mast to the very top to install the New Replacement Wind Instrument (as the previous had been hit by lightning in Rio Dulce) and erecting our long VHF Shakespeare Big Stick which is 8 foot above our Mast Height and gives us 25 mile coverage for AIS and VHF.

The anchorage was rolly, with a terrible swell, so it was very unpleasant for Nicholas to be up 120 foot off the water. 

That done, we had a quick discussion as to whether to leave immediately or wait. Looking at the weather predictions, (it was Thursday midday) we had to get directly east to turn the corner at the Honduras Banks 400 miles away by Sunday early evening. I said let’s Go, and put time in the bank.

However, at this time of year, the wind is predominantly from the East, and our hope was that the forecast Easterly wind would remain light and seas flat so we could Motor Sail almost directly into the Wind.

That didn’t exactly pan out. 200 miles later we were only approaching the Honduras Bay Island of Guanaja in 2 days (48 hours), that’s Very slow, as we had stronger winds, more sea swell, and had to tack to make headway. Further we had discovered that we Both forgot that we should have filled up our two Diesel tanks in Rio Dulce, and had set off with only one tank at three quarters, and we needed to save the fuel for crossing the notorious Honduras Banks.

As we closed the Honduran Bay of Islands we got weather updates and it showed a huge Thunder/Lightning storm would hit us soon, so we angled into Guanaja, and anchored close to shore in the lee of the high mountains.

Entering the anchorage, going past Dunbar Rock Hotel/Restuarant

Showing how high the mountains are close to this anchorage

Sods Law: We had a direct hit, and even though Nicholas had unplugged all our instruments, the lightning hit our Shakespeare Big Stick, split it, travelled down the cable and we had smoke coming out of our Chart Table Instrument Panel, which thankfully we had open. There was no Fire. The strike however jumped from the cable to the Splitter Box (which allows one cable to receive both AIS and VHF),  and both the cable connector and Splitter Box was fried black.

Storm closing in

In addition to the Shakespeare Aerial and Splitter Box, the Lightning Strike took our ALL our interior lights, and importantly our Raspberry Pie (which is the Computer which controls all the electronic On/Off switches for All our Instruments, etc.).

Gathering our thoughts, Nicholas contacted Kieran and asked him to use TeamViewer (Starlink was still working), and try see if the Raspberry Pie was salvageable. It was not. Lucking we had a Spare Raspberry Pie aboard, and Nicholas installed it. Kieran was able to ‘see’ it, but regrettably the attached Distribution boards were fried, and we did not have Spare boards. Nicholas then spent hours making ‘hard switches’ for all the required navigation instruments etc that we’d need to continue our journey.

By now we had missed the weather window opportunity to be at the East end of Honduran Bay by Sunday evening, so had to wait for the next weather window which thankfully was only 4 days later. You might recall from my previous Blog that we bought two Wind Instruments, so we installed the Second just prior to upping our anchor. (Tough pill to swallow, that our previous one only lasted 48 hours - for $500).

We set off in light Easterly winds, which was predicted to go South East and then North/ North East. Thankfully the prediction came to pass, and we were able to get well off-shore on the South Easterly, to enter the Honduran Bank at about 60 miles off-shore. These Banks are Notorious for Piracy and we were prepped with valuables etc all put away, and any means for repelling the potential Pirates ready. Flares, Spearguns and the like.

We went into Stealth Mode the first night, with all lights, navigation, interior etc and AIS off. Our Radar was still on (we had the chart plotter and instruments in the salon on low light with a towel over to diminish any possible light), and kept 24/7 watch outside for lights of any boats. Stressful but fine. Daylight brought its own problems as our Sails can be seen way off.  Still all good. 

The next night we entered Nicaraguan waters, and Nicholas felt my desire to stay Stealth was an overkill, so he switch on Masthead Navigation light, AIS, Cockpit lights etc. Whilst I slept, he had three boats visible, and one altered course majorly on an intercept course and dramatically increased speed. (Not a normal maneuver for a fishing boat). Nicholas immediately instituted Stealth mode, and Meshugga went dark. He had both motors at full throttle in Turbo. On Radar he could see the Boat reach the point we had been and start a search pattern. Nicholas had made drastic changes of course and distanced us from the Fishing/Pirate Boat. Not saying it was a Pirate Boat, but one cannot be too careful on these Banks where boardings, robberies, assaults and rapes have happened - and why would an innocent Fishing Boat try to approach a Sailing Boat at night…… just saying.

When I came on watch at 2am, I was a little paranoid, even though we were still in Stealth Mode, I took evasive action at any Fishing Boat I saw either on Radar or Lights outside. Thankfully by morning when Nicholas took over the Watch we were approaching deeper water, but still my stress continued as we passed Nicaraguan Reefs where we could see Boats on Radar,  - probably innocently fishing. It would only be later that night that we were well away in deep water.

All this action had used up most of our fuel, and the weather showed that there would be a huge dead wind patch (Parking Lot) for 24 hours close to Linton Bay, which was our destination. Looking at the Chart we decided to alter course for Bocas del Tora, which would only be 20 miles closer if we changed course now, and we would have wind to get there, and we could get fuel in Bocas. However it would then still be a 165 miles from Bocas to Linton, but one we could do on the next good weather window and with fuel.

We had a Brown Boobie come land on Meshugga. It was an adult. Usually this signals extreme tiredness followed by death. The Boobie (which I nicknamed Bob) spent the night on the side deck.

Next day Bob went fishing and I watched him successfully catch a few fish. That’s Good. All his fishing was conducted around Meshugga, in easy distance for him to get back to us. Bob constantly came back to rest between fishing sprees. That night Bob chose our aft Solar Panels for his perch.

We arrived at the Channel Entrance to Bocas del Tora at 10pm, in pitch dark, with an outgoing tide. We’d read the guides that advising that most of the channel bouys were non existent, but still we entered with flood lights on - just in case. We anchored at 1am in a mooring field close to the Bocas del Tora Marina which had a Fuel Dock.

All this time Bob slept soundly on the Solar Panels, not concerned by our flood lights or the motors, and even after we anchored he was still fast asleep. However when we awoke after sunup, Bob was gone. Hopefully he’ll find a new family to join in Bocas, Panama.

We dropped the dingy and went into the Marina and scheduled a time to come alongside to fuel up. Next we contacted friends Matthew and Ally Thomas who were somewhere in Bocas on the Yacht they manage, SV Delcinea, who are from Cape Town and whom we’ve known for 20 years.

They were at Red Frog Marina, some 5 miles away, so after filling with fuel we motored and anchored off Red Frog. Such Fun to catch up. Last time we’d seen Matt and Ally was in Grenada in 2019.

A weather window was available next day, so we left Red Frog Anchorage mid afternoon for a 26 hours Motor Sail to Linton Bay. We weathered a Huge Thunderstorm with winds going from None (1.9Kn) to 45Kn within minutes. 

We rushed to the Flybridge, dumped the Main, let out the Genoa, and Bore off. As we followed the wind downwind we ended up going directly back in the direction we’d been slowing sailing from, this time at 10kn speed. As the initial wind from the Squall abated, we were able to reef our sails and hope that we’d not have another Lightning Strike. This time lucky! 

We arrived at Linton Bay, anchored and chilled. After contacting the Marina and moving into our assigned berth, we registered with the Marina, and started the Customs and Immigration procedure. All legal, we started the with plans for hauling out and contacting contractors to get quotes for assistance for work to be done on Meshugga.

It’s hot and humid. Thankfully our Aircon works, and gives respite to cool down after working outside on deck or moving items to our rented storeroom.

Guatemala, Time to Leave

Both of us are at last feeling a lot better, so we went ashore to Fronteras to shop for fresh produce and buy a birthday cake and gift, that we’d promised to a little local boy, Luna (8 years old ) in Cayo Quemado  

With the New Instrumentation installed and 99% working, we upped anchor and motored the 20 miles to Cayo Quemado. 

Alfredo saw us at anchor and came to say hello with his daughter. He was most grateful for the birthday cake and gift for his son Luna. They are quite poor, and survive by fishing and growing and selling fruits. 

A hand of bananas I bought from Alfredo. 

We went to Fred, the Raymarine chap’s dock, and he spent less than a half hour assisting Nicholas with the last bit of programming that Nicholas was battling to get right. We now have all our instruments working 100% and can safely sail away. 

After Fred, on leaving his dock we motored the 10 miles down river to Livingston, and I contacted the agent Raul to process our Outbound Clearance. Nicholas had overstayed his Visa, which expired 10 February, but I’d checked out that possibility and we only had to pay a Visa fine of Q15 per day ($2 per day).

Fred’s dock

Chloe, the Sailmakers Loft

Beautiful misty conditions as we motored down the Rio Dulce to Livingston 

We had to pass under the dreaded Power Lines again, and we hugged the Port bank. 

We have a bit of Quetzal left, but with the notorious theft situation from anchored yachts in Livingston, I was uncomfortable leaving Meshugga unattended to go ashore for a last night out Valentines meal. 

Happy birthday to our daughter-in-law, Katie and Happy Valentines to everyone. 

Thursday 15 February, 8 months since we arrived in Guatemala, we spent the morning chilling and readying Meshugga so cross the bar at High Tide at noon. 

Livingston 

We crossed the bar at High Tide successfully with just two small bumps on the bar. Then we anchored waiting for the wind to switch. Currently it coming directly from the direction we want to sail to, but early to mid evening it should switch to easterly which will allow us a beam reach sailing north. 

Bacon, Tomato and Avo sandwiches for lunch whilst we wait.

At 3.30pm we upped anchor and motor sailed. By 6pm the expected easterly came through and we shut the motor off. Beautiful sailing, behind the Belize reef, flat water with 15 knots of wind. Sublime.

We exited the Belize reef at the English Channel soon after daybreak, and continued north. 3 days of excellent conditions continued.

Half hour fun sitting on the Starboard pulpit seat watching dolphins

We’d passed Cancun/Isla Majuers/Mexico well to sea, midway to Cuba. Current was strong with us, wind too. Quite a few ships on AIS, but nothing close or dangerous.

I’d just come off watch at 4.30am and at 5am was awoken with a huge noise and the sound of rain. Grabbing my scrunchie for my hair I raced up to the Flybridge in my Pj’s. Nicholas was there, Flybridge lights on. The wind was screaming, rain flying horizontally, sea spray everywhere. The wind, which was supposed to gradually switch from SE to South the SE to West, had not happened, and instead on a Squall came thundering through straight from SE to West, with Big winds.  We’d gybed. Nicholas was battling to get the Genoa furled as it was lying hard on the mast and inner Forestay. I rushed to the Helm and Nicholas shouted, “Don't let us Gybe again”  I saw that the Auto pilot could not cope and had clicked to Standby, and grabbed the helm and steered Meshugga up into the wind (after having a Quick Look at the Chart Plotter and scanning the horizon for ship lights). This slowed the boat down, and with the wind from the front, taking the pressure out of the sails, Nicholas was able to furl the Genoa. He then turned on the engines, and powering into the wind, we slapped two reefs into the Main. We eased off the wind, taking out a handkerchief Genoa, and turned the engines off. No damages, but we were soaked to the bone.

As the new westerly wind settled in we pulled out more Genoa and continued across the Florida Strait. Our next expectation of excitement was for around 9pm when the wind would go north.

Sods Law, at 7pm, the boat screamed and heeled with the huge northerly wind. Rushing up to the Flybridge again we reefed the Genoa. But instead of the 25-30 expected northerly, we had more than 40 knots, and felt it not prudent to aim into the huge swells to put a 3rd reef into our main. The wind continued to howl all night. Big winds and big sea state. No sleep was possible.

By 4am the wind eased to NW, and we could aim higher to Key West. We arrived and anchored in the lee of Stock Island prior to day break, and in dropping the main, we saw that our decision not to put in a 3rd reef had consequences, and we had a tear in our main and a batt car attachment to a batten had broken. More Repairs 🤷‍♀️

Time to sleep. On awaking we cleared into USA on the Roam App, and as per normal for a Foreign vessel, and was asked to report to CBP (Customs Border Patrol & Immigration). We dinghied to Stock Island Marina, and Ubered to CBP. As usual the process was quick, efficient and professional.  All legal in the States, we wondered down Duval Street, but having visited Key West so many times, we did not feel the pull to drink Rum Punches at the variety of bars, or buy memorabilia. 

Back on Meshugga we chilled, awaiting the next weather system to sail east and north to Miami.

That opportunity came next morning, and on the wind shift to south, in predawn we slipped our anchor and sailed up the Hawk Channel. Light winds, and with 3 reefs in our main so we don’t do further damage, we ghosted at 5 knots, 6 with the current.  As night fell, and we headed more north, the Hawk channel compressed and deciding that it was too dangerous to sail overnight up the narrow Hawks channel with reefs and unlit buoys, we headed out over a reasonably deep enough section of the reef out to sea. 

As usual I headed for bed at 9pm for a few hours sleep, to wake for my 1am watch. Instead of Nicholas going down to sleep, he said he’d stay up too - as it’s just a few more hours… He dozed in the Salon, I kept watch, and by 4am we were at the Biscayne Bay Fowler Light, so we could start to enter Biscayne Bay. Both on the Flybridge deck, we navigated through the channel, mostly with lit buoys, (a few unlit, just to make life interesting), and dropped anchor abeam Key Biscayne at 5am amid at least 10 other anchored yachts - a 23 hour trip. 

Time to sleep. We did nothing yesterday. Slept, read, ate and drank. Today we’re starting to make lists. We have some issues we need specialist contractors for, some big ticket items to buy, and as usual some Repairs and Maintenance, cleaning and quite a bit of laundry to do.  

All fine aboard the good Ship Meshugga.

Guatemala - Cayo Quemado

It’s been a quiet week.

We’ve been aboard at Cayo Quemado. I’ve done normal yacht chores, and I’ve also started with my bulk storage Stock-Take, which I’ll now keep meticulously updated so that I can do proper Victualing before we leave USA headed for Panama and French Polynesia later this year. This is just one of my bulk lockers. 

Every day meals have to be prepared; tonight is BBQ grilled chicken and baked potatoes with salad and beans.

Stunning sunset with hardly a breath of wind

Nicholas has been continuing with various repairs and maintenance and new Projects.

Here he is running electric cables to install 110V electricity sockets in the workshop, as we are a 220V boat.

Our view into Cayo Quemado inner anchorage, where Chloe the Sailmaker and Frederic the Raymarine chap reside.

He has also begun with the task of un-installing all the lightening damaged instruments.

A pile of uninstalled equipment is piling up on our cockpit table

The Nav table station is beginning to look quite bare with all the instruments uninstalled and wires pulled out.

We had a couple of neighbors arrive, this yacht is quite pretty. 

Today, Sunday is quite cool. With misty conditions on the surrounding mountains and a mizzel all day, we find this weather wonderfully cool - it’s 25C / 80F.