Guatemala, Time to Leave

Both of us are at last feeling a lot better, so we went ashore to Fronteras to shop for fresh produce and buy a birthday cake and gift, that we’d promised to a little local boy, Luna (8 years old ) in Cayo Quemado  

With the New Instrumentation installed and 99% working, we upped anchor and motored the 20 miles to Cayo Quemado. 

Alfredo saw us at anchor and came to say hello with his daughter. He was most grateful for the birthday cake and gift for his son Luna. They are quite poor, and survive by fishing and growing and selling fruits. 

A hand of bananas I bought from Alfredo. 

We went to Fred, the Raymarine chap’s dock, and he spent less than a half hour assisting Nicholas with the last bit of programming that Nicholas was battling to get right. We now have all our instruments working 100% and can safely sail away. 

After Fred, on leaving his dock we motored the 10 miles down river to Livingston, and I contacted the agent Raul to process our Outbound Clearance. Nicholas had overstayed his Visa, which expired 10 February, but I’d checked out that possibility and we only had to pay a Visa fine of Q15 per day ($2 per day).

Fred’s dock

Chloe, the Sailmakers Loft

Beautiful misty conditions as we motored down the Rio Dulce to Livingston 

We had to pass under the dreaded Power Lines again, and we hugged the Port bank. 

We have a bit of Quetzal left, but with the notorious theft situation from anchored yachts in Livingston, I was uncomfortable leaving Meshugga unattended to go ashore for a last night out Valentines meal. 

Happy birthday to our daughter-in-law, Katie and Happy Valentines to everyone. 

Thursday 15 February, 8 months since we arrived in Guatemala, we spent the morning chilling and readying Meshugga so cross the bar at High Tide at noon. 

Livingston 

We crossed the bar at High Tide successfully with just two small bumps on the bar. Then we anchored waiting for the wind to switch. Currently it coming directly from the direction we want to sail to, but early to mid evening it should switch to easterly which will allow us a beam reach sailing north. 

Bacon, Tomato and Avo sandwiches for lunch whilst we wait.

At 3.30pm we upped anchor and motor sailed. By 6pm the expected easterly came through and we shut the motor off. Beautiful sailing, behind the Belize reef, flat water with 15 knots of wind. Sublime.

We exited the Belize reef at the English Channel soon after daybreak, and continued north. 3 days of excellent conditions continued.

Half hour fun sitting on the Starboard pulpit seat watching dolphins

We’d passed Cancun/Isla Majuers/Mexico well to sea, midway to Cuba. Current was strong with us, wind too. Quite a few ships on AIS, but nothing close or dangerous.

I’d just come off watch at 4.30am and at 5am was awoken with a huge noise and the sound of rain. Grabbing my scrunchie for my hair I raced up to the Flybridge in my Pj’s. Nicholas was there, Flybridge lights on. The wind was screaming, rain flying horizontally, sea spray everywhere. The wind, which was supposed to gradually switch from SE to South the SE to West, had not happened, and instead on a Squall came thundering through straight from SE to West, with Big winds.  We’d gybed. Nicholas was battling to get the Genoa furled as it was lying hard on the mast and inner Forestay. I rushed to the Helm and Nicholas shouted, “Don't let us Gybe again”  I saw that the Auto pilot could not cope and had clicked to Standby, and grabbed the helm and steered Meshugga up into the wind (after having a Quick Look at the Chart Plotter and scanning the horizon for ship lights). This slowed the boat down, and with the wind from the front, taking the pressure out of the sails, Nicholas was able to furl the Genoa. He then turned on the engines, and powering into the wind, we slapped two reefs into the Main. We eased off the wind, taking out a handkerchief Genoa, and turned the engines off. No damages, but we were soaked to the bone.

As the new westerly wind settled in we pulled out more Genoa and continued across the Florida Strait. Our next expectation of excitement was for around 9pm when the wind would go north.

Sods Law, at 7pm, the boat screamed and heeled with the huge northerly wind. Rushing up to the Flybridge again we reefed the Genoa. But instead of the 25-30 expected northerly, we had more than 40 knots, and felt it not prudent to aim into the huge swells to put a 3rd reef into our main. The wind continued to howl all night. Big winds and big sea state. No sleep was possible.

By 4am the wind eased to NW, and we could aim higher to Key West. We arrived and anchored in the lee of Stock Island prior to day break, and in dropping the main, we saw that our decision not to put in a 3rd reef had consequences, and we had a tear in our main and a batt car attachment to a batten had broken. More Repairs 🤷‍♀️

Time to sleep. On awaking we cleared into USA on the Roam App, and as per normal for a Foreign vessel, and was asked to report to CBP (Customs Border Patrol & Immigration). We dinghied to Stock Island Marina, and Ubered to CBP. As usual the process was quick, efficient and professional.  All legal in the States, we wondered down Duval Street, but having visited Key West so many times, we did not feel the pull to drink Rum Punches at the variety of bars, or buy memorabilia. 

Back on Meshugga we chilled, awaiting the next weather system to sail east and north to Miami.

That opportunity came next morning, and on the wind shift to south, in predawn we slipped our anchor and sailed up the Hawk Channel. Light winds, and with 3 reefs in our main so we don’t do further damage, we ghosted at 5 knots, 6 with the current.  As night fell, and we headed more north, the Hawk channel compressed and deciding that it was too dangerous to sail overnight up the narrow Hawks channel with reefs and unlit buoys, we headed out over a reasonably deep enough section of the reef out to sea. 

As usual I headed for bed at 9pm for a few hours sleep, to wake for my 1am watch. Instead of Nicholas going down to sleep, he said he’d stay up too - as it’s just a few more hours… He dozed in the Salon, I kept watch, and by 4am we were at the Biscayne Bay Fowler Light, so we could start to enter Biscayne Bay. Both on the Flybridge deck, we navigated through the channel, mostly with lit buoys, (a few unlit, just to make life interesting), and dropped anchor abeam Key Biscayne at 5am amid at least 10 other anchored yachts - a 23 hour trip. 

Time to sleep. We did nothing yesterday. Slept, read, ate and drank. Today we’re starting to make lists. We have some issues we need specialist contractors for, some big ticket items to buy, and as usual some Repairs and Maintenance, cleaning and quite a bit of laundry to do.  

All fine aboard the good Ship Meshugga.