Panama & Chicago, We finally Splash Meshugga

It’s been months since my last post, and the main reason I’ve not been active on my Blog is the ‘Same Old Same Old’ routine on Meshugga of ongoing Repairs, Replacement, Improvements.

If I could get Nicholas to explain his work, not to mention my requests that I video him and the work he and his helper Marco are doing, I would have many interesting Blogs/Vlogs to post.

Late January I had a fabulous visit to Chicago to our son Kieran, his wife Katie, and our grandbabies Arden and Ronan. I loved the coolth of the snow, and went prepared with my boots, beanie, scarf, and most importantly my pure Down Abercrombie and Finch jacket which although almost 30 years old, is still stylish and most importantly warm.

With Ronan, 1 year old next week, February 2026.

With Arden

Kieran, Arden, Katie and Ronan

The cold snap with temps at -20 degrees C !!!!

My rental vehicle. I was pleased that the roads were all salted and snow ploughed.

I got back to Meshugga.

Yard dogs Kaylee and Riley are still our constant companions and pretty much live underneath Meshugga.

Their beds under Meshugga

Kaylee

Riley

Marina Yard Cruisers Pizza evenings, hosted by our local Polish Baker Patryk. Always fun.

We on 12 March, after almost 18 full months on the hard, we Splashed, and whilst exciting, it quickly went downhill when both our engines would not start, despite have both having had a major service by a reputable diesel mechanic, who has all the Volvo computerized diagnostic equipment. The mechanic, Mike, was unfortunately away at a 6 day music festival, so we were towed from the Travel Lift pen to the closest dock about 50m away.

The list of ‘must do work’ seems never ending, and many jobs are all ‘in-progress’, often at a stand-still when Nicholas finds he needs additional new spare parts which are not available in Panama and needs to be sourced, bought in USA or Europe, air-freighted, imported etc, not a quick or cheap process.

USA, Key West - Guatemala, Rio Dulce

Our trip was slow and uneventful, despite the stress of Hurricane Beryl strengthening and whose path we would have to cross.

The Gulf Stream current played havoc with us and dogged us with 3-4 knots against us from Key West to the West end of Cuba. Two days of very slow sailing.

A Tanker who was on a Collision Course with us, crossing in front of us within a mile. Our new VHF/AIS aerial sees AIS Targets at a 25 mile range, and so we were well aware of the impending situation. The Tanker communicated with us on VHF to arrange passing, and we agreed to change our course to avoid a collision and pass behind them.

This is the Gulf Current which we had to contend with. Thanks Duane for the photo.

Then we had to cross the Gulf Stream again to the Mexico coastline, this time with the winds East we were able to head more SW across the Gulf Stream and close the Mexico coast south of Isla Cozumel which kept us out of the stronger current near Ilsa Mejures, which we had to contend with on the same trip last year when we had strong SE winds and could not head as south as we could now.

Thereafter we sailed south within 1-2 miles off the Mexican coastal reefs to keep out of the north setting Gulf Current, but the current and east winds created swells big enough to make sailing uncomfortable.

Nicholas studying the Chart and Instruments

Crossing from West Cuba to Mexico, lots of ships can be seen on AIS. We’re the white boat in the center.

Once we entered Belize waters, we were able to enter their Barrier Reef at the English Cay Channel, and were then completely out of current with flat waters. It was champagne sailing with Meshugga doing 9-10 knots. With a night ahead of us and the usual possibility of squalls we put in two reefs, slowed the boat, and settled again into our Night Time Watch System of Nicholas staying up to 2am, and me getting some sleep, and then I take over at 2am til Nicholas wakes up, usually at 7am.

Sailing in the shelter of Turneef Islands towards English Cay Channel to enter the Belize Barrier Reef

We had about 6 Boobies flying around Meshugga for a couple of hours. Meshugga disturbs the fish, and they swoop down to our bow wave to dive and catch fish

The slower night speed meant we missed the High Tide for the Rio Dulce river bar, but we decided we’d try enter anyway, as we had a Track from our last exit, which was a published Track that a Cruiser had posted after depth sounding the bar. If we got stuck, we’d have to sit and wait for the next High Tide.

We crossed 4 hours after High Tide, and at a very low speed, with all sails down to motor and control our course exactly as the route included a dogleg. We touched briefly in soft sand and could feel the keels dragging through the mud, but we had no problem getting over the hard rock bar.

Our route over the River Bar, you can see the Dog Leg we have to make to avoid a very shallow patch, and the Track is no where near the Navionics Chart recommended Track!

Safely anchored in the Livingston anchorage area, a Ferry Boat approached us with the Officials and Agent Raul to whom we’d sent all our documents to arrange Inward Clearance on our behalf. Ten minutes later they departed with our passports, with an instruction to go collect our passports, Cruising Permit and make payment at Rauls’ office in an hours time.

I put the Boom cover on, had a shower, and we went ashore. Livingston has a reputation for petty thievery, and so we paid the Dinghy Guard to watch our dinghy at the Jetty. Not needing anything urgent, we made a quick trip to Rauls’ office.

Livingston Main Jetty

Agent Rauls’ Servamar Office

Back at Meshugga, it was Low Tide and the right time for us to head up-river, and under the dreaded Power Lines again. Having done it four times before, I was not so stressed as previous occasions, and we passed under safely, even noting that the river was fairly high as they’ve had a lot of rain in the recent weeks.

Ten miles upriver we anchored at Quemado, and had an early dinner and early night to sleep. A celebratory Arrival Dinner and Beer at a Restaurant could wait for the next day.

Our anchorage at Quemado.

The trip took us 5 days.

During our Trip Hurricane Beryl has slammed into Carriocou, Grenada, Union and Mayreau Islands in the Grenadines, Jamaica, Cayman Islands as a Category 5 Hurricane with 155 knot winds, and enroute to slam into Mexico just south of Isla Cozumel as a Category 2 Hurricane with 110 knot winds. Whilst of concern, our Trip was planned and we were in no danger at all, even though our Trip was taking us across Beryls path a couple of days ahead of her reaching the area.

Our route

A couple of photos of damages caused on Carriocou Island, just north of Grenada

During the Trip, I celebrated my 60th Birthday. Thank you to everyone who sent messages. It was wonderful, when getting Comms, to receive them all.

USA - Key West - Time to Leave the USA

It’s been just over 4 months since we arrived in Key West from Guatemala. Most of our time has been spent in Key Biscayne, Miami where we have been anchored in the idyllic harbor called No Name Harbor. 

Just a short cycle ride to the village for all our daily needs, and we took out a UPS box so were able to get get hundreds of packages from Amazon and Other Suppliers for stocking up Meshugga with Spares and Parts Nicholas required for immediate use, as well as for in the months ahead.

Stunning sunsets in No Name Harbor

Our Domestic Fridge Freezer decided to die, and so we ordered the same Liebherr , just newer model, to fit into the exact same area. Here we are alongside at No Name Harbor, and the delivery chaps have delivered the new and taken the old away. We are using a Halyard to hoist the unit aboard.

Inside, and unpacked. It took a day to maneuver the unit down the stairs on Port, and fit with water piping for the ice maker, and wood front doors

Another stunning sunset after a busy day

I caught the bus and Metro train to the airport to hire a vehicle for a few days. Not a bad way to travel. Took 45 minutes and cost $5, whereas an Uber would take 40 minutes and cost $40.

Hertz counter at the Miami Airport Car Hire station.

We spent 3 days shopping up a storm of victuals at Costco, Walmart, Home Depot etc

And even a new Chest Freezer for our Flybridge. Our existing although working fine is beginning to rust, and we don’t think it’ll last the expected 3 years in French Polynesia.

Many huge slabs of meat, this one is of Rib Eye, ready to cut into steaks, and vacuum pack into portions.

Next on our list was to get our Covid Boosters. I think this is our 6th Booster. We are now 100% up to date.

I went into Miami on a shopping trip to the Biscayne Mall and found energetic locals working out.

Nicholas generously gifted me a New iPad for my upcoming birthday, and as we’d not be near an Apple Store at the time, and probably have left USA by then, I ordered and went to the Apple Store to collect my loot.

Could not resist a little other shopping!

 

View from Biscayne Mall into Miami

Not all sunshine in Miami, and we had a few days of heavy downpours when a weather system in north Florida dumped huge rain and caused flooding.

Hurricane Season officially starts 1 June, and we decided to stay longer in Miami, as my British Citizenship Application had been Approved, and I was waiting for my Ceremony Date which I’d arranged to attend at the UK Consulate in Miami. I eventually got the notification date for the 18th, a little later than we’d hoped, but still doable.

On the day, we Ubered to the UK Consulate and I and 5 other Applicants received our Citizenship Certificates.

Back at No Name Harbor, Boaters Grill, and our dinghy at the Dinghy Dock

One of the hundreds of Iguanas that live in the Park and sun themselves

The Cleat Bar…

 Meshugga

Back at Meshugga, we immediately upped anchor and motored across the bay to Matheson Marina to fill up with Diesel and Petrol, and started our journey south to Key West motoring inside Biscayne Bay to Elliot Key Cut to exit to the sea.

Within 10 miles, I noticed that my new iPad GPS was not working, and my Location GPS said my new iPad was still sitting in No Name Harbor. I hauled out my Old IPad, fired that up, and it happily showed me sailing south down Biscayne Bay. 

After 6 hours on the phone to Apple Support, and numerous Resets etc, they said I’d need to return the iPad to a store. Googling I found there were no Apple Stores in Key West, so next morning we turned Meshugga around and headed back to Miami, a 4 hour sail. An Uber later, at Apple, they were most helpful and happily gave me a new iPad. This time I was taking no chances, and sat in the Apple Store, setting up the device, and then going for a walk around 2 blocks to ensure that the Location Device and GPS (essential for our Navigation Charts - as a back up), was working perfectly.

Back at Meshugga, we then set off again to Key West, an uneventful sail, with a couple of hours motor sailing in the early hours when the wind died.

Sailing into Key West is the obligatory Cruise Liner docked

We anchored in the Man O War mooring field. 

I had been in contact with a fellow Cruiser, who was in Rio Dulce, and they needed a package transported from Miami to Rio Dulce. We’d undertaken to help, but their package was delayed ( I think), and we left Miami before it was ready to be delivered to us. They organised for it to be couriered to Key West, and we met the driver at Key West Yacht Club.

Boat Parts for a fellow Cruiser.

Key West is hot, humid and windless. 

We’ve been waiting for the wind to set in, which will only really be tomorrow, Saturday, but we’ve decide to check out of Customs today, Friday and leave.

There’s a heavy weather system off Cancun Mexico,  ( the Yellow X), which will go over Cancun area on Saturday and so we’d like to get to that area only by Sunday late, to ensure the seas have calmed and winds gone favorable again in that area. Then there’s two system brewing in the Atlantic off Cape Verde, the Red one is scheduled to curve up in the West Caribbean Sea, and possible slam into Belize ( which is immediately north of Guatemala). But that will be Friday next week, by which time we’ll be into Guatemala’s Rio Dulce and safe.

The Yellow system off Cape Verde is new today, and no idea yet where it will go. But it’s far away enough to not impact on our trip.

We dingied to Key West yacht Club and Ubered to CBP (Customs Border Patrol) to get a Zarpe (Yacht Customs exit document). Then onto Winn Dixie (Supermarket), to get a stock up of some fresh produce and bread rolls for the start of our trip.

Back at Meshugga, you can see from my Pano that the Man O War anchorage is pretty much empty.

Motor Sailing out of Key West, again the obligatory Cruise Ship. This time a Virgin Cruise Liner.

So, sorry about the long wait for this News Blog update.

Cheers, will Blog again from Guatemala Rio Dulce.