USA - Key West - Time to Leave the USA

It’s been just over 4 months since we arrived in Key West from Guatemala. Most of our time has been spent in Key Biscayne, Miami where we have been anchored in the idyllic harbor called No Name Harbor. 

Just a short cycle ride to the village for all our daily needs, and we took out a UPS box so were able to get get hundreds of packages from Amazon and Other Suppliers for stocking up Meshugga with Spares and Parts Nicholas required for immediate use, as well as for in the months ahead.

Stunning sunsets in No Name Harbor

Our Domestic Fridge Freezer decided to die, and so we ordered the same Liebherr , just newer model, to fit into the exact same area. Here we are alongside at No Name Harbor, and the delivery chaps have delivered the new and taken the old away. We are using a Halyard to hoist the unit aboard.

Inside, and unpacked. It took a day to maneuver the unit down the stairs on Port, and fit with water piping for the ice maker, and wood front doors

Another stunning sunset after a busy day

I caught the bus and Metro train to the airport to hire a vehicle for a few days. Not a bad way to travel. Took 45 minutes and cost $5, whereas an Uber would take 40 minutes and cost $40.

Hertz counter at the Miami Airport Car Hire station.

We spent 3 days shopping up a storm of victuals at Costco, Walmart, Home Depot etc

And even a new Chest Freezer for our Flybridge. Our existing although working fine is beginning to rust, and we don’t think it’ll last the expected 3 years in French Polynesia.

Many huge slabs of meat, this one is of Rib Eye, ready to cut into steaks, and vacuum pack into portions.

Next on our list was to get our Covid Boosters. I think this is our 6th Booster. We are now 100% up to date.

I went into Miami on a shopping trip to the Biscayne Mall and found energetic locals working out.

Nicholas generously gifted me a New iPad for my upcoming birthday, and as we’d not be near an Apple Store at the time, and probably have left USA by then, I ordered and went to the Apple Store to collect my loot.

Could not resist a little other shopping!

 

View from Biscayne Mall into Miami

Not all sunshine in Miami, and we had a few days of heavy downpours when a weather system in north Florida dumped huge rain and caused flooding.

Hurricane Season officially starts 1 June, and we decided to stay longer in Miami, as my British Citizenship Application had been Approved, and I was waiting for my Ceremony Date which I’d arranged to attend at the UK Consulate in Miami. I eventually got the notification date for the 18th, a little later than we’d hoped, but still doable.

On the day, we Ubered to the UK Consulate and I and 5 other Applicants received our Citizenship Certificates.

Back at No Name Harbor, Boaters Grill, and our dinghy at the Dinghy Dock

One of the hundreds of Iguanas that live in the Park and sun themselves

The Cleat Bar…

 Meshugga

Back at Meshugga, we immediately upped anchor and motored across the bay to Matheson Marina to fill up with Diesel and Petrol, and started our journey south to Key West motoring inside Biscayne Bay to Elliot Key Cut to exit to the sea.

Within 10 miles, I noticed that my new iPad GPS was not working, and my Location GPS said my new iPad was still sitting in No Name Harbor. I hauled out my Old IPad, fired that up, and it happily showed me sailing south down Biscayne Bay. 

After 6 hours on the phone to Apple Support, and numerous Resets etc, they said I’d need to return the iPad to a store. Googling I found there were no Apple Stores in Key West, so next morning we turned Meshugga around and headed back to Miami, a 4 hour sail. An Uber later, at Apple, they were most helpful and happily gave me a new iPad. This time I was taking no chances, and sat in the Apple Store, setting up the device, and then going for a walk around 2 blocks to ensure that the Location Device and GPS (essential for our Navigation Charts - as a back up), was working perfectly.

Back at Meshugga, we then set off again to Key West, an uneventful sail, with a couple of hours motor sailing in the early hours when the wind died.

Sailing into Key West is the obligatory Cruise Liner docked

We anchored in the Man O War mooring field. 

I had been in contact with a fellow Cruiser, who was in Rio Dulce, and they needed a package transported from Miami to Rio Dulce. We’d undertaken to help, but their package was delayed ( I think), and we left Miami before it was ready to be delivered to us. They organised for it to be couriered to Key West, and we met the driver at Key West Yacht Club.

Boat Parts for a fellow Cruiser.

Key West is hot, humid and windless. 

We’ve been waiting for the wind to set in, which will only really be tomorrow, Saturday, but we’ve decide to check out of Customs today, Friday and leave.

There’s a heavy weather system off Cancun Mexico,  ( the Yellow X), which will go over Cancun area on Saturday and so we’d like to get to that area only by Sunday late, to ensure the seas have calmed and winds gone favorable again in that area. Then there’s two system brewing in the Atlantic off Cape Verde, the Red one is scheduled to curve up in the West Caribbean Sea, and possible slam into Belize ( which is immediately north of Guatemala). But that will be Friday next week, by which time we’ll be into Guatemala’s Rio Dulce and safe.

The Yellow system off Cape Verde is new today, and no idea yet where it will go. But it’s far away enough to not impact on our trip.

We dingied to Key West yacht Club and Ubered to CBP (Customs Border Patrol) to get a Zarpe (Yacht Customs exit document). Then onto Winn Dixie (Supermarket), to get a stock up of some fresh produce and bread rolls for the start of our trip.

Back at Meshugga, you can see from my Pano that the Man O War anchorage is pretty much empty.

Motor Sailing out of Key West, again the obligatory Cruise Ship. This time a Virgin Cruise Liner.

So, sorry about the long wait for this News Blog update.

Cheers, will Blog again from Guatemala Rio Dulce.

Guatemala, Time to Leave

Both of us are at last feeling a lot better, so we went ashore to Fronteras to shop for fresh produce and buy a birthday cake and gift, that we’d promised to a little local boy, Luna (8 years old ) in Cayo Quemado  

With the New Instrumentation installed and 99% working, we upped anchor and motored the 20 miles to Cayo Quemado. 

Alfredo saw us at anchor and came to say hello with his daughter. He was most grateful for the birthday cake and gift for his son Luna. They are quite poor, and survive by fishing and growing and selling fruits. 

A hand of bananas I bought from Alfredo. 

We went to Fred, the Raymarine chap’s dock, and he spent less than a half hour assisting Nicholas with the last bit of programming that Nicholas was battling to get right. We now have all our instruments working 100% and can safely sail away. 

After Fred, on leaving his dock we motored the 10 miles down river to Livingston, and I contacted the agent Raul to process our Outbound Clearance. Nicholas had overstayed his Visa, which expired 10 February, but I’d checked out that possibility and we only had to pay a Visa fine of Q15 per day ($2 per day).

Fred’s dock

Chloe, the Sailmakers Loft

Beautiful misty conditions as we motored down the Rio Dulce to Livingston 

We had to pass under the dreaded Power Lines again, and we hugged the Port bank. 

We have a bit of Quetzal left, but with the notorious theft situation from anchored yachts in Livingston, I was uncomfortable leaving Meshugga unattended to go ashore for a last night out Valentines meal. 

Happy birthday to our daughter-in-law, Katie and Happy Valentines to everyone. 

Thursday 15 February, 8 months since we arrived in Guatemala, we spent the morning chilling and readying Meshugga so cross the bar at High Tide at noon. 

Livingston 

We crossed the bar at High Tide successfully with just two small bumps on the bar. Then we anchored waiting for the wind to switch. Currently it coming directly from the direction we want to sail to, but early to mid evening it should switch to easterly which will allow us a beam reach sailing north. 

Bacon, Tomato and Avo sandwiches for lunch whilst we wait.

At 3.30pm we upped anchor and motor sailed. By 6pm the expected easterly came through and we shut the motor off. Beautiful sailing, behind the Belize reef, flat water with 15 knots of wind. Sublime.

We exited the Belize reef at the English Channel soon after daybreak, and continued north. 3 days of excellent conditions continued.

Half hour fun sitting on the Starboard pulpit seat watching dolphins

We’d passed Cancun/Isla Majuers/Mexico well to sea, midway to Cuba. Current was strong with us, wind too. Quite a few ships on AIS, but nothing close or dangerous.

I’d just come off watch at 4.30am and at 5am was awoken with a huge noise and the sound of rain. Grabbing my scrunchie for my hair I raced up to the Flybridge in my Pj’s. Nicholas was there, Flybridge lights on. The wind was screaming, rain flying horizontally, sea spray everywhere. The wind, which was supposed to gradually switch from SE to South the SE to West, had not happened, and instead on a Squall came thundering through straight from SE to West, with Big winds.  We’d gybed. Nicholas was battling to get the Genoa furled as it was lying hard on the mast and inner Forestay. I rushed to the Helm and Nicholas shouted, “Don't let us Gybe again”  I saw that the Auto pilot could not cope and had clicked to Standby, and grabbed the helm and steered Meshugga up into the wind (after having a Quick Look at the Chart Plotter and scanning the horizon for ship lights). This slowed the boat down, and with the wind from the front, taking the pressure out of the sails, Nicholas was able to furl the Genoa. He then turned on the engines, and powering into the wind, we slapped two reefs into the Main. We eased off the wind, taking out a handkerchief Genoa, and turned the engines off. No damages, but we were soaked to the bone.

As the new westerly wind settled in we pulled out more Genoa and continued across the Florida Strait. Our next expectation of excitement was for around 9pm when the wind would go north.

Sods Law, at 7pm, the boat screamed and heeled with the huge northerly wind. Rushing up to the Flybridge again we reefed the Genoa. But instead of the 25-30 expected northerly, we had more than 40 knots, and felt it not prudent to aim into the huge swells to put a 3rd reef into our main. The wind continued to howl all night. Big winds and big sea state. No sleep was possible.

By 4am the wind eased to NW, and we could aim higher to Key West. We arrived and anchored in the lee of Stock Island prior to day break, and in dropping the main, we saw that our decision not to put in a 3rd reef had consequences, and we had a tear in our main and a batt car attachment to a batten had broken. More Repairs 🤷‍♀️

Time to sleep. On awaking we cleared into USA on the Roam App, and as per normal for a Foreign vessel, and was asked to report to CBP (Customs Border Patrol & Immigration). We dinghied to Stock Island Marina, and Ubered to CBP. As usual the process was quick, efficient and professional.  All legal in the States, we wondered down Duval Street, but having visited Key West so many times, we did not feel the pull to drink Rum Punches at the variety of bars, or buy memorabilia. 

Back on Meshugga we chilled, awaiting the next weather system to sail east and north to Miami.

That opportunity came next morning, and on the wind shift to south, in predawn we slipped our anchor and sailed up the Hawk Channel. Light winds, and with 3 reefs in our main so we don’t do further damage, we ghosted at 5 knots, 6 with the current.  As night fell, and we headed more north, the Hawk channel compressed and deciding that it was too dangerous to sail overnight up the narrow Hawks channel with reefs and unlit buoys, we headed out over a reasonably deep enough section of the reef out to sea. 

As usual I headed for bed at 9pm for a few hours sleep, to wake for my 1am watch. Instead of Nicholas going down to sleep, he said he’d stay up too - as it’s just a few more hours… He dozed in the Salon, I kept watch, and by 4am we were at the Biscayne Bay Fowler Light, so we could start to enter Biscayne Bay. Both on the Flybridge deck, we navigated through the channel, mostly with lit buoys, (a few unlit, just to make life interesting), and dropped anchor abeam Key Biscayne at 5am amid at least 10 other anchored yachts - a 23 hour trip. 

Time to sleep. We did nothing yesterday. Slept, read, ate and drank. Today we’re starting to make lists. We have some issues we need specialist contractors for, some big ticket items to buy, and as usual some Repairs and Maintenance, cleaning and quite a bit of laundry to do.  

All fine aboard the good Ship Meshugga.

USA Key West to Guatemala Rio Dulce

Heading out of Key West, USA on Wednesday 14 June we headed due south to Cuba. It was slow going with light winds and crossing a strong Gulf Current. 24 Hours later we closed Cuba coast approximately at Hemingway Marina, and turned west to follow the Cuban coast about 2 miles off the reefs to stay in the very light counter-current. Another 24 hours later we rounded the western end of Cuba, and turned south. Our plan to head due south before crossing the Gulf Current again, towards Mexico this time, was thawted by strong south easterly winds, which forced us to head across the current earlier than we’d planned to. We battled across the current as it swept us north at the strongest at 5 knots, and as we were close hauled, it was difficult sailing conditions. Eventually we closed the Mexican coast just south of Isla Mejures, and again went close inshore to try find a zero or a very slight counter current, ie going in the same way as us.

Sunrise whilst on watch

Dolphins keeping us company

Another 24 hours later we entered the Belize waters, and soon thereafter was able to go through a passage in the Barrier Reef into shallow water out of the north-setting current.

At long last the wind freed up a bit and went more easterly and we had lovely sailing conditions. The SOG is our speed, 9.8Knots!

At 4 and a half days since leaving Key West, we arrived in Guatemalan waters and soon thereafter at midnight anchored in the lee of a headland to await morning light, and high tide to get across the Rio Dulce Bar at Livingston.

Guatemala in the distance

Starlink was amazing and we had connectivity under our normal plan all along the Mexican, Belize and Guatemala coast. 

We did not toggle to pay for Transoceanic connectivity and around Cuba, which does not have cover.

Crossing the bar with a foot of water under our keels, we anchored at Livingston.

Local fishing boat next to the channel to cross the Bar of Rio Dulce.

I WhatsApped the Agent Raul to process our In-bound Clearance with the Authorities. Within 2 hours the Officials came aboard and the process was very quick and professional.

A couple of hours later we went ashore to collect our stamped Passports and Cruising Permit from Raul and draw local cash, and look around Livingston.

Looking at Livingston from Meshugga, a local Ferry comes past us

Local children’s park

Stalls in the street selling a wide variety of things

Typical shop

Pedestrian street 

Looking out to Meshugga and the other yachts all here to Clear-in

Then, it was sit around and wait for Low Tide, so that we could get under the Power Lines which cross the Rio Dulce just as one leaves Livingston to go upriver.

Whilst Nicholas drove Meshugga, I was in the dinghy on the opposite side of the river to get a clear look to ensure Meshugga could get under the Power Lines. I was surprised to see we passed under the power Lines quite easily, with Meshugga at the extreme LH side of the river and touching the trees on the river edge.

Only later did we find out that the River is at a 20 year low due to no/little rain over the past few months. Hence going out in a few months time after the rainy season, the river will probably be much higher! And Meshugga’s mast closer to the Power Lines. Yikes!

The initial section of the Rio Dulce is beautiful, narrow, with steep vertical cliffs on either side of the river.

10 Miles up the river, at the beginning of Lake Isabel, we anchored overnight. Next morning we went to visit the only Sail Repair Loft on the Rio Dulce. We found the Loft to be professional, and could see that the work currently being done on a sail looked to be of good quality, and they had proper Commercial Sewing Machine which does the safety triple stitch we is used on sails.

Happy with what we’d seen we returned to Meshugga and took down our Genoa, and bricked it for transport to the Loft, along with all the Materials we’d purchased in the USA for our Sail Repair.

Having accomplished our mission, we treated ourselves to a Guatemalan arrival lunch and local beers .

Back at Meshugga we decided to get going and reach our destination which was the Hotel Catamaran & Marina. On our arrival at the Marina, Steve the Marina Manager met us in his Launch and guided us to our Marina slip, which was a close fit for Meshugga, with Fingers on either side and just enough space to get in and have fenders on both sides. The Marina staff were superb in their assistance to help us tie up and get settled.

We’ve now been here at Catamaran Marina for 10 days, and slowly learning more about the area, where to find Yacht Supply Stores, Hardware stores, Restaurants, Fuel, Propane, the Bakery which makes good Sourdough bread etc.

We went into the town (more like a village), called Fronteras, a short dinghy ride away as the Catamaran Marina is on an Island in Lake Isabel. 

Dock for Launchas and Dinghy

Shopping center with Supermarket and Hardware store

View up the street

View the other way, down the street. Note the cute Tuk Tuk, which is the local taxi for getting around

It’s hot and humid, with everyday around 32-35 deg C, and nights drop to 29 deg C. Humidity hovers around 90%, and most nights and mornings we have rain.

Thankfully the Resort has a wonderful Pool, and most days we go up mid afternoon for a cooling dip.

The Hotel Catamaran & Marina Reception from the water, as all guests arrive by Launch.

The Reception / Blue Lounge, also where we do our morning Yoga. Staff kindly help us move the sofas from the area close to the TV

Walk way from the Blue Lounge to the Breakfast area, where they serve free Coffee every morning 7am-10am.

Breakfast area

Lunch and Evening Restuarant

Beautiful gardens with walk-ways to all the Chalets and Marinas

Most chalets overlooking the water

Beautiful flowers

Volleyball court for the energetic

Marina

Nicholas has been very busy installing a small Aircon system that can run off our Battery Bank which is charged by Solar Panels, as our existing Aircon system is a huge 115 BTU system which either requires us to run the Genset or use Shore Power. Whilst we could do both, Shore Power is expensive, and running our Genset is noisy, uses Diesel, and puts wear and tear on the machine.

He has also been installing big ceiling fans which have made a huge difference in the Salon and our bedroom. He has fans still to install in the Cockpit over the dining table and the other cabins.

I have not been that busy, just doing usual boat chores, laundry etc.

Shortly after we arrived, I found out that the FB group I am joined to, called Women Who Sail, was having a monthly local luncheon. 7 ladies from our Marina went, including me, and in total there was about 25 Ladies from various marinas on the Rio Dulce at the Luncheon. It was a great event to network, and find out more about our new surroundings, events, and where to get various supplies.

On the Launcha to Ana Coffee House for the Luncheon

Mary and Michele

Meagan and Christie

Ruth, Jamie and me

Women Who Sail Luncheon

From that, some Ladies from our Marina suggest Yoga, and we now have a daily morning practice, which we now hold in the Blue Lounge, using my Apple Fitness + Yoga App, Mirrored to the Lounge TV, so it can easily be seen and heard by all of us.

On my birthday, we went out for dinner to the “German Restuarant” Casa Perico. Being on an island we went by dinghy. As we motored around Catamaran Island it was interesting to see the Chalets from the water.

Breakfast area

Chalets 

We went up a little unnamed river to the Restuarant.

The small opening to the river

Unusual fruit hanging over the river

Lovely local boat

Local house along the river

Arrival at Casa Perico Restuarant dock

Interesting tree roots

New friends Jody and Wayne of Wanderlost, who coincidentally Cleared-in at Livingston the same morning as us, and did the same trip from Key West, but on a Nordhaven Powerboat.

Last bit of news, is that we have planned a trip back to South Africa. We leave Meshugga on Sunday 9 July arriving in Cape Town on Tuesday 11 July. We will be staying in Cape Town at an Airbnb in Green Point, and firstly getting all our necessary Medical checkups done, as well as getting new Drivers Licenses, Passports, and also seeing all our Cape Town family and friends. Once the essentials have been taken care of, I will do a trip to Pretoria to visit my mother, Genevieve, and then to Durban to visit all my other family. Nicholas will do a trip to Johannesburg to see the staff at Venn. 

We don’t have return flight dates yet, as all depends on how quickly we can get all the essentials attended to. But we expect to be in South Africa for a month.

Meshugga will be fine, well tied up at the Marina to Fingers on either side, and the Marina staff will take care of her, ensuring Fenders and Mooring Lines remain intact. It’s still early in the Hurricane Season, late August and September being the height of the Season, so even if a hurricane does slam into Honduras whilst we are away, and the rain for which Rio Dulce is the catchment area raises the lake and river level, boats float!