Friday, 4 November 2022

Guatemala - Rio Dulce

Happy Halloween 


Our sail from Utila to Livingston was a tiring and stressful 24 hours. The course took us along the north coast of Honduras, 25 miles offshore and coupled with light winds, we were constantly vigilant for piracy. Arriving at Livingston at first light was very welcome. 

Fog over Livingston gave us the first cool weather in months. Wonderful 

River bar arrival buoy. No further buoys to mark the bar channel. We touch at 0.9m and skimmed at 1m across the shallowest sections. 

We used Raul, the recommended agent (Panama Posse), to clear us in. It took 1 hour as opposed to doing it ourselves which yachts say is difficult to get done in 1 day. His inward fees were $250 including Official Fees.

We eagerly lifted anchor to motor up the Rio Dulce to our marina berth at Nana Juana Marina. Up on the Fly bridge, taking photos, I noticed power lines across the river which are not on any chart. 

We motored up close and they looked way to low for Meshugga to pass under. I jumped onto my phone and called Raul, the Marina and the Port Captain. No one knew the height of the power lines and said they were newly installed. 

An hour later we decided to take a second look. We edged up the right hand bank, as the power lines looked higher there. With the river flowing outward helping to keep Meshugga at a snail pace, and a helpful chap at his home across the river (as he could see better than us looking up), he called that we could pass under. The caveat was that there were 4 lines, the first 3 higher than the 4th. 

We passed under the first 3 and from my vantage point on the deck it looked like we would hit the 4th line, but the chap on the bank motioned us to proceed. We slid under the 4th line with a foot above our mast. I almost sh@t myself. 

A stiff whiskey later, I stopped shaking and we motored upriver thru the beautiful canyon. 

Looking back at the power lines







Nana Juana Marina was helpful in situating us on a separate dock to the other yachts, due to our size, tonnage, and the impending arrival of Hurricane Lisa. We tied up to the dock on port and stern, and to a post, a mooring ball and our anchor deployed, we were ready for the rain and blow. 

Arrival cocktails 





Marina Office 

Cruisers Tiki Hut

Cruisers Snack Bar, the Nana Market






The Hard

With a day to spare before Hurricane Lisa’s arrivals, we took a Tuk-Tuk into the local village to get local currency, fresh fruits and vegetables. 

A whole bag of fruits and vegetables cost Q45 ie $5. Definitely cheaper than Honduras, Panama or Bahamas.

Excellent flame grilled chicken. We bought a whole chicken with baby potatoes, jalapeƱos and salsa for less than $10. Dinner sorted  



Our luck, Lisa tracked on course and slammed in Belize City as Category 1, and Hurricane hole Rio Dulce lived to its reputation of being a safe place. Shielded by huge mountains, we only had light winds and rain.

Nana Juana is a Resort as well, and the grounds are beautiful, not to mention the wonderful pool.

Reception 


Beautiful shaded grounds







Charming bungalows 

Watching the weather predictions, dictated how long we’d stay in Rio Dulce as our next leg was north from Guatemala to Mexicos’ Isla Mejures (abeam Cancun), and then east to USA  

As it happened, we stayed only 4 days. 






The trip back down Rio Dulce was pleasant, and going under the power lines although  stressful, due to our previous experience, and a lower tide than when going upriver all bode well. 

We cleared out again using Raul, and immediately set sail. Outward fees were Q800 ie $105 including Official Fees. 

A 350 mile passage ahead of us to Isla Mejures, Mexico.
 














2 comments:

  1. Glad all went well for you. Now we have a tropical system headed our way in Florida.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Enjoyed seeing your photos, looks like a neat place. Glad the power-line and scary coastlines are behind you. You don't need the stress!

    ReplyDelete

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