After spending a few hours sleeping, in the lee of the headland, we prepped Meshugga which included Nicholas going up the mast to the very top to install the New Replacement Wind Instrument (as the previous had been hit by lightning in Rio Dulce) and erecting our long VHF Shakespeare Big Stick which is 8 foot above our Mast Height and gives us 25 mile coverage for AIS and VHF.
The anchorage was rolly, with a terrible swell, so it was very unpleasant for Nicholas to be up 120 foot off the water.
That done, we had a quick discussion as to whether to leave immediately or wait. Looking at the weather predictions, (it was Thursday midday) we had to get directly east to turn the corner at the Honduras Banks 400 miles away by Sunday early evening. I said let’s Go, and put time in the bank.
However, at this time of year, the wind is predominantly from the East, and our hope was that the forecast Easterly wind would remain light and seas flat so we could Motor Sail almost directly into the Wind.
That didn’t exactly pan out. 200 miles later we were only approaching the Honduras Bay Island of Guanaja in 2 days (48 hours), that’s Very slow, as we had stronger winds, more sea swell, and had to tack to make headway. Further we had discovered that we Both forgot that we should have filled up our two Diesel tanks in Rio Dulce, and had set off with only one tank at three quarters, and we needed to save the fuel for crossing the notorious Honduras Banks.
As we closed the Honduran Bay of Islands we got weather updates and it showed a huge Thunder/Lightning storm would hit us soon, so we angled into Guanaja, and anchored close to shore in the lee of the high mountains.
Entering the anchorage, going past Dunbar Rock Hotel/Restuarant
Showing how high the mountains are close to this anchorage
Sods Law: We had a direct hit, and even though Nicholas had unplugged all our instruments, the lightning hit our Shakespeare Big Stick, split it, travelled down the cable and we had smoke coming out of our Chart Table Instrument Panel, which thankfully we had open. There was no Fire. The strike however jumped from the cable to the Splitter Box (which allows one cable to receive both AIS and VHF), and both the cable connector and Splitter Box was fried black.
Storm closing in
In addition to the Shakespeare Aerial and Splitter Box, the Lightning Strike took our ALL our interior lights, and importantly our Raspberry Pie (which is the Computer which controls all the electronic On/Off switches for All our Instruments, etc.).
Gathering our thoughts, Nicholas contacted Kieran and asked him to use TeamViewer (Starlink was still working), and try see if the Raspberry Pie was salvageable. It was not. Lucking we had a Spare Raspberry Pie aboard, and Nicholas installed it. Kieran was able to ‘see’ it, but regrettably the attached Distribution boards were fried, and we did not have Spare boards. Nicholas then spent hours making ‘hard switches’ for all the required navigation instruments etc that we’d need to continue our journey.
By now we had missed the weather window opportunity to be at the East end of Honduran Bay by Sunday evening, so had to wait for the next weather window which thankfully was only 4 days later. You might recall from my previous Blog that we bought two Wind Instruments, so we installed the Second just prior to upping our anchor. (Tough pill to swallow, that our previous one only lasted 48 hours - for $500).
We set off in light Easterly winds, which was predicted to go South East and then North/ North East. Thankfully the prediction came to pass, and we were able to get well off-shore on the South Easterly, to enter the Honduran Bank at about 60 miles off-shore. These Banks are Notorious for Piracy and we were prepped with valuables etc all put away, and any means for repelling the potential Pirates ready. Flares, Spearguns and the like.
We went into Stealth Mode the first night, with all lights, navigation, interior etc and AIS off. Our Radar was still on (we had the chart plotter and instruments in the salon on low light with a towel over to diminish any possible light), and kept 24/7 watch outside for lights of any boats. Stressful but fine. Daylight brought its own problems as our Sails can be seen way off. Still all good.
The next night we entered Nicaraguan waters, and Nicholas felt my desire to stay Stealth was an overkill, so he switch on Masthead Navigation light, AIS, Cockpit lights etc. Whilst I slept, he had three boats visible, and one altered course majorly on an intercept course and dramatically increased speed. (Not a normal maneuver for a fishing boat). Nicholas immediately instituted Stealth mode, and Meshugga went dark. He had both motors at full throttle in Turbo. On Radar he could see the Boat reach the point we had been and start a search pattern. Nicholas had made drastic changes of course and distanced us from the Fishing/Pirate Boat. Not saying it was a Pirate Boat, but one cannot be too careful on these Banks where boardings, robberies, assaults and rapes have happened - and why would an innocent Fishing Boat try to approach a Sailing Boat at night…… just saying.
When I came on watch at 2am, I was a little paranoid, even though we were still in Stealth Mode, I took evasive action at any Fishing Boat I saw either on Radar or Lights outside. Thankfully by morning when Nicholas took over the Watch we were approaching deeper water, but still my stress continued as we passed Nicaraguan Reefs where we could see Boats on Radar, - probably innocently fishing. It would only be later that night that we were well away in deep water.
All this action had used up most of our fuel, and the weather showed that there would be a huge dead wind patch (Parking Lot) for 24 hours close to Linton Bay, which was our destination. Looking at the Chart we decided to alter course for Bocas del Tora, which would only be 20 miles closer if we changed course now, and we would have wind to get there, and we could get fuel in Bocas. However it would then still be a 165 miles from Bocas to Linton, but one we could do on the next good weather window and with fuel.
We had a Brown Boobie come land on Meshugga. It was an adult. Usually this signals extreme tiredness followed by death. The Boobie (which I nicknamed Bob) spent the night on the side deck.
Next day Bob went fishing and I watched him successfully catch a few fish. That’s Good. All his fishing was conducted around Meshugga, in easy distance for him to get back to us. Bob constantly came back to rest between fishing sprees. That night Bob chose our aft Solar Panels for his perch.
We arrived at the Channel Entrance to Bocas del Tora at 10pm, in pitch dark, with an outgoing tide. We’d read the guides that advising that most of the channel bouys were non existent, but still we entered with flood lights on - just in case. We anchored at 1am in a mooring field close to the Bocas del Tora Marina which had a Fuel Dock.
All this time Bob slept soundly on the Solar Panels, not concerned by our flood lights or the motors, and even after we anchored he was still fast asleep. However when we awoke after sunup, Bob was gone. Hopefully he’ll find a new family to join in Bocas, Panama.
We dropped the dingy and went into the Marina and scheduled a time to come alongside to fuel up. Next we contacted friends Matthew and Ally Thomas who were somewhere in Bocas on the Yacht they manage, SV Delcinea, who are from Cape Town and whom we’ve known for 20 years.
They were at Red Frog Marina, some 5 miles away, so after filling with fuel we motored and anchored off Red Frog. Such Fun to catch up. Last time we’d seen Matt and Ally was in Grenada in 2019.
A weather window was available next day, so we left Red Frog Anchorage mid afternoon for a 26 hours Motor Sail to Linton Bay. We weathered a Huge Thunderstorm with winds going from None (1.9Kn) to 45Kn within minutes.
We rushed to the Flybridge, dumped the Main, let out the Genoa, and Bore off. As we followed the wind downwind we ended up going directly back in the direction we’d been slowing sailing from, this time at 10kn speed. As the initial wind from the Squall abated, we were able to reef our sails and hope that we’d not have another Lightning Strike. This time lucky!
We arrived at Linton Bay, anchored and chilled. After contacting the Marina and moving into our assigned berth, we registered with the Marina, and started the Customs and Immigration procedure. All legal, we started the with plans for hauling out and contacting contractors to get quotes for assistance for work to be done on Meshugga.
It’s hot and humid. Thankfully our Aircon works, and gives respite to cool down after working outside on deck or moving items to our rented storeroom.
