USA, Key West - Guatemala, Rio Dulce

Our trip was slow and uneventful, despite the stress of Hurricane Beryl strengthening and whose path we would have to cross.

The Gulf Stream current played havoc with us and dogged us with 3-4 knots against us from Key West to the West end of Cuba. Two days of very slow sailing.

A Tanker who was on a Collision Course with us, crossing in front of us within a mile. Our new VHF/AIS aerial sees AIS Targets at a 25 mile range, and so we were well aware of the impending situation. The Tanker communicated with us on VHF to arrange passing, and we agreed to change our course to avoid a collision and pass behind them.

This is the Gulf Current which we had to contend with. Thanks Duane for the photo.

Then we had to cross the Gulf Stream again to the Mexico coastline, this time with the winds East we were able to head more SW across the Gulf Stream and close the Mexico coast south of Isla Cozumel which kept us out of the stronger current near Ilsa Mejures, which we had to contend with on the same trip last year when we had strong SE winds and could not head as south as we could now.

Thereafter we sailed south within 1-2 miles off the Mexican coastal reefs to keep out of the north setting Gulf Current, but the current and east winds created swells big enough to make sailing uncomfortable.

Nicholas studying the Chart and Instruments

Crossing from West Cuba to Mexico, lots of ships can be seen on AIS. We’re the white boat in the center.

Once we entered Belize waters, we were able to enter their Barrier Reef at the English Cay Channel, and were then completely out of current with flat waters. It was champagne sailing with Meshugga doing 9-10 knots. With a night ahead of us and the usual possibility of squalls we put in two reefs, slowed the boat, and settled again into our Night Time Watch System of Nicholas staying up to 2am, and me getting some sleep, and then I take over at 2am til Nicholas wakes up, usually at 7am.

Sailing in the shelter of Turneef Islands towards English Cay Channel to enter the Belize Barrier Reef

We had about 6 Boobies flying around Meshugga for a couple of hours. Meshugga disturbs the fish, and they swoop down to our bow wave to dive and catch fish

The slower night speed meant we missed the High Tide for the Rio Dulce river bar, but we decided we’d try enter anyway, as we had a Track from our last exit, which was a published Track that a Cruiser had posted after depth sounding the bar. If we got stuck, we’d have to sit and wait for the next High Tide.

We crossed 4 hours after High Tide, and at a very low speed, with all sails down to motor and control our course exactly as the route included a dogleg. We touched briefly in soft sand and could feel the keels dragging through the mud, but we had no problem getting over the hard rock bar.

Our route over the River Bar, you can see the Dog Leg we have to make to avoid a very shallow patch, and the Track is no where near the Navionics Chart recommended Track!

Safely anchored in the Livingston anchorage area, a Ferry Boat approached us with the Officials and Agent Raul to whom we’d sent all our documents to arrange Inward Clearance on our behalf. Ten minutes later they departed with our passports, with an instruction to go collect our passports, Cruising Permit and make payment at Rauls’ office in an hours time.

I put the Boom cover on, had a shower, and we went ashore. Livingston has a reputation for petty thievery, and so we paid the Dinghy Guard to watch our dinghy at the Jetty. Not needing anything urgent, we made a quick trip to Rauls’ office.

Livingston Main Jetty

Agent Rauls’ Servamar Office

Back at Meshugga, it was Low Tide and the right time for us to head up-river, and under the dreaded Power Lines again. Having done it four times before, I was not so stressed as previous occasions, and we passed under safely, even noting that the river was fairly high as they’ve had a lot of rain in the recent weeks.

Ten miles upriver we anchored at Quemado, and had an early dinner and early night to sleep. A celebratory Arrival Dinner and Beer at a Restaurant could wait for the next day.

Our anchorage at Quemado.

The trip took us 5 days.

During our Trip Hurricane Beryl has slammed into Carriocou, Grenada, Union and Mayreau Islands in the Grenadines, Jamaica, Cayman Islands as a Category 5 Hurricane with 155 knot winds, and enroute to slam into Mexico just south of Isla Cozumel as a Category 2 Hurricane with 110 knot winds. Whilst of concern, our Trip was planned and we were in no danger at all, even though our Trip was taking us across Beryls path a couple of days ahead of her reaching the area.

Our route

A couple of photos of damages caused on Carriocou Island, just north of Grenada

During the Trip, I celebrated my 60th Birthday. Thank you to everyone who sent messages. It was wonderful, when getting Comms, to receive them all.

Guatemala, Time to Leave

Both of us are at last feeling a lot better, so we went ashore to Fronteras to shop for fresh produce and buy a birthday cake and gift, that we’d promised to a little local boy, Luna (8 years old ) in Cayo Quemado  

With the New Instrumentation installed and 99% working, we upped anchor and motored the 20 miles to Cayo Quemado. 

Alfredo saw us at anchor and came to say hello with his daughter. He was most grateful for the birthday cake and gift for his son Luna. They are quite poor, and survive by fishing and growing and selling fruits. 

A hand of bananas I bought from Alfredo. 

We went to Fred, the Raymarine chap’s dock, and he spent less than a half hour assisting Nicholas with the last bit of programming that Nicholas was battling to get right. We now have all our instruments working 100% and can safely sail away. 

After Fred, on leaving his dock we motored the 10 miles down river to Livingston, and I contacted the agent Raul to process our Outbound Clearance. Nicholas had overstayed his Visa, which expired 10 February, but I’d checked out that possibility and we only had to pay a Visa fine of Q15 per day ($2 per day).

Fred’s dock

Chloe, the Sailmakers Loft

Beautiful misty conditions as we motored down the Rio Dulce to Livingston 

We had to pass under the dreaded Power Lines again, and we hugged the Port bank. 

We have a bit of Quetzal left, but with the notorious theft situation from anchored yachts in Livingston, I was uncomfortable leaving Meshugga unattended to go ashore for a last night out Valentines meal. 

Happy birthday to our daughter-in-law, Katie and Happy Valentines to everyone. 

Thursday 15 February, 8 months since we arrived in Guatemala, we spent the morning chilling and readying Meshugga so cross the bar at High Tide at noon. 

Livingston 

We crossed the bar at High Tide successfully with just two small bumps on the bar. Then we anchored waiting for the wind to switch. Currently it coming directly from the direction we want to sail to, but early to mid evening it should switch to easterly which will allow us a beam reach sailing north. 

Bacon, Tomato and Avo sandwiches for lunch whilst we wait.

At 3.30pm we upped anchor and motor sailed. By 6pm the expected easterly came through and we shut the motor off. Beautiful sailing, behind the Belize reef, flat water with 15 knots of wind. Sublime.

We exited the Belize reef at the English Channel soon after daybreak, and continued north. 3 days of excellent conditions continued.

Half hour fun sitting on the Starboard pulpit seat watching dolphins

We’d passed Cancun/Isla Majuers/Mexico well to sea, midway to Cuba. Current was strong with us, wind too. Quite a few ships on AIS, but nothing close or dangerous.

I’d just come off watch at 4.30am and at 5am was awoken with a huge noise and the sound of rain. Grabbing my scrunchie for my hair I raced up to the Flybridge in my Pj’s. Nicholas was there, Flybridge lights on. The wind was screaming, rain flying horizontally, sea spray everywhere. The wind, which was supposed to gradually switch from SE to South the SE to West, had not happened, and instead on a Squall came thundering through straight from SE to West, with Big winds.  We’d gybed. Nicholas was battling to get the Genoa furled as it was lying hard on the mast and inner Forestay. I rushed to the Helm and Nicholas shouted, “Don't let us Gybe again”  I saw that the Auto pilot could not cope and had clicked to Standby, and grabbed the helm and steered Meshugga up into the wind (after having a Quick Look at the Chart Plotter and scanning the horizon for ship lights). This slowed the boat down, and with the wind from the front, taking the pressure out of the sails, Nicholas was able to furl the Genoa. He then turned on the engines, and powering into the wind, we slapped two reefs into the Main. We eased off the wind, taking out a handkerchief Genoa, and turned the engines off. No damages, but we were soaked to the bone.

As the new westerly wind settled in we pulled out more Genoa and continued across the Florida Strait. Our next expectation of excitement was for around 9pm when the wind would go north.

Sods Law, at 7pm, the boat screamed and heeled with the huge northerly wind. Rushing up to the Flybridge again we reefed the Genoa. But instead of the 25-30 expected northerly, we had more than 40 knots, and felt it not prudent to aim into the huge swells to put a 3rd reef into our main. The wind continued to howl all night. Big winds and big sea state. No sleep was possible.

By 4am the wind eased to NW, and we could aim higher to Key West. We arrived and anchored in the lee of Stock Island prior to day break, and in dropping the main, we saw that our decision not to put in a 3rd reef had consequences, and we had a tear in our main and a batt car attachment to a batten had broken. More Repairs 🤷‍♀️

Time to sleep. On awaking we cleared into USA on the Roam App, and as per normal for a Foreign vessel, and was asked to report to CBP (Customs Border Patrol & Immigration). We dinghied to Stock Island Marina, and Ubered to CBP. As usual the process was quick, efficient and professional.  All legal in the States, we wondered down Duval Street, but having visited Key West so many times, we did not feel the pull to drink Rum Punches at the variety of bars, or buy memorabilia. 

Back on Meshugga we chilled, awaiting the next weather system to sail east and north to Miami.

That opportunity came next morning, and on the wind shift to south, in predawn we slipped our anchor and sailed up the Hawk Channel. Light winds, and with 3 reefs in our main so we don’t do further damage, we ghosted at 5 knots, 6 with the current.  As night fell, and we headed more north, the Hawk channel compressed and deciding that it was too dangerous to sail overnight up the narrow Hawks channel with reefs and unlit buoys, we headed out over a reasonably deep enough section of the reef out to sea. 

As usual I headed for bed at 9pm for a few hours sleep, to wake for my 1am watch. Instead of Nicholas going down to sleep, he said he’d stay up too - as it’s just a few more hours… He dozed in the Salon, I kept watch, and by 4am we were at the Biscayne Bay Fowler Light, so we could start to enter Biscayne Bay. Both on the Flybridge deck, we navigated through the channel, mostly with lit buoys, (a few unlit, just to make life interesting), and dropped anchor abeam Key Biscayne at 5am amid at least 10 other anchored yachts - a 23 hour trip. 

Time to sleep. We did nothing yesterday. Slept, read, ate and drank. Today we’re starting to make lists. We have some issues we need specialist contractors for, some big ticket items to buy, and as usual some Repairs and Maintenance, cleaning and quite a bit of laundry to do.  

All fine aboard the good Ship Meshugga.

Guatemala - Rio Dulce, Lightening Stike, New Instruments

Fred, the Raymarine chap, found that we'd been hit by Lightning. Not a direct strike, more like a side blow, but enough to take out all our Instruments. That included our Chartplotter, Auto Pilot, Wind, Depth, and Lagoon Eplex system that drives the whole boat.

We went on-line to order and Airfreight new equipment to us, only to discover that Guatemala has some weird rule that you can only Airfreight up to $1000 worth of equipment, and many of the items cost way more than that. Sea Freight was a possibility, but at 6-8 weeks. :-(

Our solution was for me to fly to Miami and fly back in with all the equipment, and decided to do this in conjunction with an appointment I had at USCIS for Biometrics for my UK Citizenship application.

We had thought we'd be in Miami for my Appointment, but with no instruments our trip to Miami on Meshugga was put on hold.

Motor Sailing back to Fronteras, with no Instruments, using my iPad Navionics for navigation

On Sunday 28 February I did the long 6-7 hour bus ride on Litegua again to Guatemala City, taking an early morning 6am bus so that I could ensure I make my 5pm flight to Miami. All went well with no road accidents and I made good time arriving by Uber from the Bus Station to the Airport by 2pm. With just hand luggage and a timeous Hotel Shuttle, I made it to my Airport hotel by 10pm.

Monday 29th was a hectic day for me, traveling to Miami North for my Biometrics appointment, as with all government departments, it's hurry up and wait in various queues. But the actual Biometrics appointment was quick and professional. Then it was another long haul down to Key Biscayne where we have our UPS box. 

Riding the Free Miami Loop, amazing 

I got to UPS to find that 4 packages had not yet been delivered, although scheduled for Monday. I ended up spending a few hours sitting on the floor in UPS waiting for USPS and Amazon to arrive. Four big shopping bags, quite heavy with all the protective packing, I caught an Uber back to my Hotel at the Airport.

Loot

I stayed at Staybridge Suites, an IGH hotel, and was most impressed with both the suite.

In addition, they do full hot breakfasts, and Mondays, Tuesday, and Wednesdays, have a Happy Hour with Free wine and beer and snacks. On arrival back from UPS I grabbed a glass of wine, a plate of snacks and chilled for a half hour.

I then had the task of packing all Nicholas stuff into my Tog Bag, and Cabin Bag,  ensuring that all delicate instruments were traveling in my cabin bags. In addition to all the new Instruments, was a new Bosun Chair and Climbing harness.

Tuesday morning was up early, check out, and Uber to the Airport as the Shuttle only starts at 7am. All checked in, I went to the American Express Centurion Lounge for an excellent breakfast and Mimosa to celebrate a successful trip.

Whilst in the Lounge I started coughing, which got worse on the Plane, and Bus thereafter.

I had worn a mask traveling to Miami both on the bus and plane, but not on Monday whilst using public transport and Ubers, nor at my Biometrics appointment. I again wore a mask all the way back to Rio Dulce. But the damage was done, I had picked up some germ - whether Flu or Covid.

I arrived back in Frontiers at 11pm, and Nicholas met me at the Litegua Station. Back on Meshugga I immediately took Anti-biotics and started Nicholas on them too, as he was bound to get my germs.

I've been man down in bed for 10 days. I did have a temperature of 39.5C for a couple of days, so it might have been Covid, or otherwise just bad Flu. With all our Covid Vaccinations, I've been sure that I should be fine. Nicholas got sick too, but not as bad as me.

Nicholas continued this whole while, at a slower pace, installing all the new Instruments, with the hundreds of cables, old being stripped out and new cables being installed.

Making a New Instrument panel

Cutting out the correct size holes for the new Instruments

Wires everywhere

More cables - so glad he knows what’s going on

A plan coming together well

Guatemala - Cayo Quemado

It’s been a quiet week.

We’ve been aboard at Cayo Quemado. I’ve done normal yacht chores, and I’ve also started with my bulk storage Stock-Take, which I’ll now keep meticulously updated so that I can do proper Victualing before we leave USA headed for Panama and French Polynesia later this year. This is just one of my bulk lockers. 

Every day meals have to be prepared; tonight is BBQ grilled chicken and baked potatoes with salad and beans.

Stunning sunset with hardly a breath of wind

Nicholas has been continuing with various repairs and maintenance and new Projects.

Here he is running electric cables to install 110V electricity sockets in the workshop, as we are a 220V boat.

Our view into Cayo Quemado inner anchorage, where Chloe the Sailmaker and Frederic the Raymarine chap reside.

He has also begun with the task of un-installing all the lightening damaged instruments.

A pile of uninstalled equipment is piling up on our cockpit table

The Nav table station is beginning to look quite bare with all the instruments uninstalled and wires pulled out.

We had a couple of neighbors arrive, this yacht is quite pretty. 

Today, Sunday is quite cool. With misty conditions on the surrounding mountains and a mizzel all day, we find this weather wonderfully cool - it’s 25C / 80F.